by Rea Stavropoulos*,
What more could you hope for in a Greek island holiday? Back in England and reflecting on our 11 day stay at Kallichoron on Astypalea in July, I realise just how special that combination of position – (easy to get to beach, cafes and shops on foot), the view (spectacular), comfort, gourmet breakfasts on our private terrace (with local delicacies and jams made from the fruit of their orchards) and friendly and efficient service.
But it’s the people and the relationships they kindle that really create a fondness for a place and make you want to go back. And for that, I must thank our hosts Carolina and Maria.
Kalichoron enveloped us in its warm embrace from the moment of arrival. No, even before our arrival, talking first on the phone with Carolina and then receiving her initial email, I felt there was something more personal and welcoming than any of the other four places we had stayed at over this summer and even other summers, over many decades of travelling around the various Greek islands. I wasn’t disappointed. Together with my husband, Giovanni, we felt “coccolati” as they say in Italian (cherished/ nurtured/ looked after).
We started with books, having finished what we had brought with us we were eager to find the next books to accompany our summer journey. Travel is as much about the inner journey as the outer one, and It was a joy to find a carefully selected library of books in English, Greek, Italian and French (our combination of languages,) including classic and contemporary Greek novels, both original and in translation and books on local history, costumes and customs and to make discoveries that deepened our understanding of the island, its connection with Venice and with Greek history, which nurtured discussions between us and with our hosts. Maria and Carolina understood us perfectly and were full of suggestions and proposals for our stay, be it the next book to read, a restaurant, a beach, and how to contact Kiria Poppi, the lady with the private museum of local folk art – an amazing hidden gem of a place.
Over and above that, I have to thank Maria for her Initiative and persistence in helping me with some Athenian bureaucracy and I would love her to become my Greek “fixer”.
As an artist, I really appreciate the quiet time before the sun rises and 5:50 am became my inner wake up call, from which time I would go out onto our lovely terrace and meditate through painting, watching the sun as it rose above the hills to my left and charting the changing colours and facets of the view, of sky, sea, the hill with its Venetian castle, and the cluster of white buildings below.
We don’t usually travel to Greek islands to be “pampered” with beauty or other treatments, as swimming , walking and reading on the beach provide sufficient exercise, stimulus and relaxation. But when Kallichoron opened its treatment room with physiotherapist Peggy we were curious to try out some treatments. They were the cherry on the cake – even my husband, who is usually “allergic” to such things, enjoyed them and feels that they helped resolve a foot problem. I sampled some of the massages and can only say they were so relaxing that I drifted away to far off lands.
I don’t know whether it was due to the two good fairies of Kallichoron, but our stay was not marred by the presence of wasps, mosquitoes or jellyfish and we enjoyed wonderful swimming on the nearby beach of Livadi – a pleasant one and a half kilometre walk downhill from the hotel – sometimes we would return on foot and other times by bus or taxi.
Another pleasant and easy walk was to the port down through the village streets. We walked there on our last night to eat our final meal on the island at the Antikastro restaurant, recommended by Marie and Carolina, with its great view of the illuminated castle, the sparkling lights of the village and an almost full moon reflected like stars in the dark waters of the harbour. I was also able to do some night painting of the evocative scene as we waited for a 1:30 am boat back to Piraeus.
Our luggage had been left behind at the hotel and it was brought to us promptly at 1 am, before boarding, by Maria and Carolina who arrived at the port together with their canine companion, Casanova, to wish us a last farewell.
I hope that it is “Arrivederci”.
*Rea Stavropoulos, Artist, Writer, Educator and Advocate for women artists, London, 22 July 2022, reastavropoulos@gmail.com , www.reastavropoulos.com
