by Arietta Pouliou,
Majestic and picturesque in equal measures, the area around the square stood as the epicentre of the island’s social life during Corfu’s Venetian period
For all its visitors, one of the most enjoyable things they can do on the stunning island of Corfu is strolling along the alleys of the old town, following the cobblestoned paths that lead from one fortress to the other, from the seaside streets to the dense frame of lanes that spread around churches and squares, forming the unique character of a charming city. And even though the old city’s features that acts as a magnet for the crowds are the magnificent Liston with its elegant arches and Spianada, the largest square in the Balkans, you should not miss the picturesque setting of the Old Town Hall Square, a picture perfect area flanked with buildings that bear witness of the city’s Venetian past.
With a rich history that puts it in the centre of the social life of Corfu’s Venetian era, it’s still a favourite meeting point for locals who choose it for a night drink in an elegant and carefree ambiance, but also for travellers who love the authentic atmosphere and the allure of the old buildings and narrow lanes that surround the square.
The slightly descending slope of the square intensifies the focus on the Old Town Hall building. It’s one of the most imposing and elegant buildings of Venetian times, standing there for more than 3 centuries and giving its name to the square. Since its completion in 1691, it immediately became the most important meeting place of the Venetian and local noble society, serving as a Loggia di Nobili. Then, since 1720, it housed the lyric Theatre San Giacomo, taking its name from the catholic cathedral that also stands on the same square. It was the first Corfiot theatre, the centre of Greek opera and among the best lyric theatres of Europe, attracting famous Italian composers and performers for almost two centuries. It hosted many opera plays by Antonio Vivaldi, in fact his “Juditha Triumphans” was first performed here, even before taking the stage of Milan’s La Scala. The acceptance of a performance at San Giacomo’s stage was considered to be a barometer for its course in other European theatres, as the expression “Aplausitto a Corfu” clearly shows. The lyric scene’s contribution to Corfiots’ love for music and to shaping the famous Ionian music culture as a mixture of Italy’s and Corfu’s music tradition, was a great one. Following the course of time, and since the theatre moved to another location in 1903, an extra level was added to the building and it reopened as the Town Hall. The elaborate exterior decoration with engraved masks and historic scenes remains till these days, along with Corfu’s emblem above the building’s entrance.
Although the Town Hall is open to public only for state services, I had the privilege to be allowed and guided inside the main halls, in order to describe the interior’s grandeur. And indeed, there’s so much evidence of the building’s glorious past. The Mayor’s office with the red carpet, the painted frescoes on the ceiling and the carefully preserved old furniture, is filled with portraits of important Corfiots, men and women that left their mark on the island and added to its cultural flourishing. From Nikolaos Mantzaros, the composer of the Greek national anthem, to many distinguished politicians and from Empress Elisabeth of Austria who commissioned the build of Achilleion Palace, to Count Ioannis Capodistrias, first governor of Greece, they are all there, giving life to Corfu’s rich history.
The room is also full of diplomatic gifts and tokens of Corfu’s close friendship and collaboration with other cities, but the one item that’s most proudly displayed is a document of 1864, according to which the Ionian Senate accepts and confirms the unification of the Ionian islands with the new Greek state. In the Town Hall’s main corridor, a marble plaque narrates the building’s story and its various uses in the course of time.
The other impressive building on the square is the popular Catholic Cathedral, the Duomo or San Giacomo, the centre of the catholic faith in Corfu, that replaced an older Cathedral located inside the old fortress of Corfu. And although it’s not certain when the new church was built on this site, historic facts show that it was severely damaged during the second Ottoman siege of the city in 1571 and rebuilt in the middle of the 17th century. The construction we see today, in the characteristic late baroque style of many Venetian churches, is a product of an exterior renovation that took place in the beginning of the 20th century. The church stands out with its symmetrical layout, the adjacent tower and its tower bell, being almost as recognisable as that of Agios Spiridon, the patron saint of Corfu. The simple interior of the single-nave basilica with three chapels on each side, was renovated after being completely destroyed by a German bombing in 1943. If you happen to be in Corfu during Easter, it would be particularly interesting to attend the catholic service of Resurrection on Holy Saturday, in which the Duomo’s ecclesiastic organ also participates.
The third impressive building one notices framing the top of the square, is the former Residence of the Roman Catholic Archbishop. It was built in the 17th century, completed around the same time with the Duomo, and after a period of serving as a courthouse, it now houses the Bank of Greece. You can best admire it from the centre of the square, standing next to the bust of Iakovos Polylas, an important Corfiot writer and politician, but if you walk all the way up the wide staircase you will enjoy a panoramic snapshot of Corfu’s Venetian past unfolding before you.
Although the historic aspect of the square is defined by these marvellous Venetian buildings, it’s the rest of its charming elements, that form its unique character. A mixture of interesting shops, casual eateries and elegant al fresco restaurants, cafés and bars and of course the tall, narrow, houses in Corfu’s characteristic pastel colours, with the bright bougainvilleas pouring out of the iron cast balconies.
I can’t help but mentioning first of all, an all-time locals’ favourite, the small bakery ‘’Starenio’’ that stands on the northern corner of the square, on Guildford St. For 33 years now, Nikos, the always smiling owner and the friendly staff serve a big variety of delicious, homemade and multi-awarded savory pies -Greek classics and others with imaginative stuffing combinations-, at the small tables that spread on the pedestrianised street.
It’s a lovely tiny spot and a great idea for breakfast, when the atmosphere around is still quite peaceful. Along with your coffee or juice you may try their homemade nut bars, cookies, the daily changing desserts -don’t miss the apple pie or the yogurt pie, vegan cheesecakes, omelettes, or simply a slice of freshly baked bread with local butter and homemade jam. The location is great for an overall view of the square and for lazing about passers-by and merchants of the area that open their shops for the day.
The one that will definitely catch your attention, almost next to Starenio bakery, is the wonderful flower shop ‘’Lily Fleur’’, a lovely place for flower gift ideas, with bunches and bouquets of fresh and dried flowers beautifully arranged along a wooden bench, outside the shop. Generally, Guildford str. is one of the most picturesque pedestrian streets of Corfu’s old town, with ivy brunches climbing house walls and stretching across balconies, many dining options, artistic shops and designer’s workshops, where you can buy unique clothes, handmade accessories and attractive decorative items.
Walking back towards the square again, make sure you’re hungry enough for a sweet delight at “Stazei meli”, translating “Dripping honey” and indeed, this little eatery does just that. It’s a small café specialising in deep fried, bite sized doughnuts, which have a long tradition as a sweet treat in Corfu. Their Greek name is “loukoumades” and apart from being a popular dessert all over Greece, here they are also closely associated to the celebrations of the island’s patron saint, as Corfiots would eat loukoumades before the vigil organized in the church of Saint Spyridon on the night before the saint’s feast day. Traditionally they are served with honey, cinnamon and chopped walnuts, but Stazei meli offers a long menu of various choices for a truly delicious indulgence. You may start with a savory version and finish with an extra loaded sweet portion of doughnuts either stuffed or covered with chocolate, cream, marmalade and many more extras too.
As the sun descents, the Old Town Hall Square acquires a whole new beam, with its elegantly lighted buildings and the popular bars and restaurants that spread their tables and colourful sittings in front of the Town Hall building. For an aperitivo, an inspired cocktail or simply when in need for a dose of caffeine, ‘’Piccolo’’,right on the square, is your ideal destination. Since early in the morning the serve a specialty house blend, while in the evenings summer flavours take over, with cocktails like the exotic Ginie with gin, passion fruit and mint or the signature Mangolino which combines rum with mango and coconut puree.
A few steps further, the tiny bar ‘’Puppet’’ becomes more and more popular as night falls, thanks to its stylish décor, the carefully selected music tunes from a big collection of vinyl records that also serve as part of the décor and the enviable selection of some 600 spirits. Should you -inevitably- fall in love with the location, remember that Puppet has also four apartments for rental above the bar, for a memorable stay right in the heart of the old town.
On the same side of the square, for quality and unique gift ideas and small keepsakes, Barbara, the friendly owner of artistic ‘’Anti Karoi’’ will help you find the most appropriate among her small treasures, according to your taste: clothes, hats, handmade accessories, jewellery, olive oil soaps, cosmetic bags of all sizes, decorative items like mirrors made of recycled wood pieces by a local artist, traditional cushions and small rugs. Look for objects by Greek brand Viaggio Corfu, elegant and minimalistic creations based on Corfiot icons and inspired by the island’s traditions.
As for dining options, the setting couldn’t be more romantic. Restaurants elegantly lay their tables on and around the square, offering an unforgettable environ for a relaxed night, elevated by delicious dishes. ‘’Nolita’’ ranks among the best on the island, bears the signature of renowned executive chef Yiannis Liokas and honours the Venetian history of its location with a menu dedicated to Italian delicacies. Start with octopus “alla puttanesca” where San Marzano tomatoes are combined with black olives, caper, chickpea cream and fennel salad, taste the summer in ‘’Calamarata di mare” with mussels, scallops, sea urchin, fish roe and piment d’Espelette, try sea bass fillet with seasonal greens and mascarpone sauce and make sure you leave some space for the original tiramisu.
Enjoying your dinner along a glass of crisp Greek wine, overlooking the young crowds that sit on the square’s flower filled stairs, adding to the happy vibe, you can’t help but giving in the magnetism and the past times charm of this gorgeous setting, one of the most authentic and splendid parts of the old town of Corfu.
