by Arietta Pouliou
Santorini of Wine and Vine: The portrait of an international oenological destination of distinction
The varieties, the uniqueness of the Therian vineyard, and the sublime tasting experiences on the «Island of the Volcano»
The star of the Cycladic constellation, the leading lady of the Aegean summer dream, the island of the volcano and the spectacular sunset that has become the very emblem of the Greek summer — Santorini needs no formal introduction. This land of mystical aura, of landscapes that hold you spellbound, and of a civilization that continues to astonish, is a place of condensed, incomparable beauty and worldwide allure. For millennia, volcanic lava has left its wondrous imprint upon this island of the caldera -that breathtaking spectacle of cliffs and light where whitewashed cave-houses cling to rock faces above the infinite blue of the Aegean.
Its beaches, often wild and otherworldly, offer the exhilarating sensation of diving into surreal scenery, its cosmopolitan charm radiates through the narrow alleys of Fira and Oia, always teeming with travellers enthralled by its singularity. Yet, beyond the postcard perfection and the famous sunsets lies another Santorini, a proud ambassador of Greek wine, now acclaimed on the world stage, adored by connoisseurs, and bearing a wine profile so distinctive that nothing like it exists anywhere else on Earth.
- A terroir sculpted by fire and sea – a tradition lost in the depths of history
Santorini and its volcano are inseparable notions. The latter exerts a magnetic pull on every visitor, a mysterious energy that seems to emanate from the very soil -a force that has bestowed a rare identity and character upon all that grows here. The cataclysmic eruption of 1613 B.C., which reshaped the island’s geology and obliterated its prehistoric civilization, also endowed it with mineral-rich soils -mainly basalt, pumice, and ash- compact yet porous, ensuring both excellent drainage and the vital retention of moisture in this arid climate.
It’s precisely this volcanic nature that protected Santorini’s self-rooted vineyard, covering 1.400 hectares, from the phylloxera blight that devastated most of Europe’s vineyards in the late 19th century. Thus, the island’s ancient viticultural heritage -stretching back 3.500 years– endures unbroken. Archaeological finds from Akrotiri, including frescoes of grape cultivation and harvest, as well as amphorae and vessels adorned with vine motifs, bear witness to a winemaking tradition rooted in prehistory. Add to this equation the dry, sun-drenched climate, scant rainfall, strong winds, and the morning «anedossá» -the life-giving dew that gently revives the vines- and the result is fruit of remarkable concentration and quality, from grape varieties now inseparably linked with Santorini itself.
- From Assyrtiko to Mavrotragano — and from Nychteri to Vinsanto
The viticultural landscape of Santorini is as unique as its history. The vineyards, cultivated low to the ground and woven into basket-like «kouloures», resemble small, round works of art. These living sculptures shelter the grapes from scorching sun and windblown sand, while capturing within their spiral form the island’s nocturnal breath of moisture. But between pruning and harvest -the «vendéma» as locals call it- lie countless hours of labor, devotion, knowledge and care, all invested by both vinegrowers and winemakers in pursuit of a perfect vintage.
The term Nychteri -meaning «of the night»- recalls the old custom of pressing grapes after sundown, when the Aegean breeze cooled the kanaves -the traditional wineries- and the fruit could be crushed at its freshest. Today, the name designates dry Santorini PDO wines aged for at least three months in oak barrels, with Assyrtiko reigning supreme. Alongside Athiri and Aidani, it defines the island’s wine identity -distinguished by piercing minerality, complex aromas, high acidity, generous body, and an astonishing capacity for ageing. These wines stand among the most precious gifts of Greek nature.
The red varieties, too, have their noble representatives: Mavrotragano and Mandilaria, either alone or blended with Assyrtiko, yield rosés of great aromatic finesse -where red fruits mingle with citrus notes- and reds of structure and character. Yet, the crown jewel remains the timeless Vinsanto: the amber, sun-dried, sweet wine that seems to hold in each dense drop the very essence of the island’s sun. Slowly fermented and aged for years in barrels and bottles, it evolves into a nectar layered with aromas of cinnamon, clove, dried apricot, raisin, coffee, cocoa, caramel, and roasted nuts, a truly unique and precious masterpiece of patience and tradition.
- The mystagogy of taste: visiting the island’s wineries
Eighteen wineries across Santorini invite visitors into this world of vinous enchantment. Each one of them offers a journey through the island’s viticultural heritage, revealing the distinctive character of its volcanic terroir in every labeled bottle. Their tasting rooms -often perched dramatically over the caldera or carved into the volcanic rock- serve as gateways to understanding not only the wines themselves but also the challenges of cultivation and the passionate vision of those who keep this tradition alive and keep on investing in the designation of the Thiran vineyard character. On sun-drenched terraces hewn from stone, overlooking the sea-filled crater, in ancient kanaves that wear the patina of time, in cellars deep beneath the vineyards, among fermenting vats and aromatic barrels the experience is nothing short of mesmerizing.
Guides on this sensory pilgrimage are some of the foremost names in Greek winemaking: the state-of-the-art Estate Argyros, with four generations of expertise, the spectacular Venetsanos Winery, the organic Hatzidakis, the contemporary Vassaltis, the historic Santo Wines cooperative, whose architecture echoes the terraced vineyards, the venerable Gavalas family,ranking among the island’s oldest winemakers, the pioneering Paris Sigalas of Oia and Artemis Karamolegos, tirelessly devoted to his native soil -to name but a few.
…at Vassaltis winery
Single-varietal and blended wines, fresh vintages and bottles that wait patiently for their moment to breathe and astonish with their aging potential, crisp, elegant whites, fragrant rosés, velvety reds, and always the iconic Vinsanto with its haunting sweetness, all paired with cured meats, cheeses, and local delicacies that amplify their character, prove in every sip, in every scent, that the vineyards of Santorini whisper their timeless secret: that you are standing upon a land like no other, where fire, sea, and human devotion have together distilled a miracle.
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N.B. This article by Mrs. Pouliou comes at no better time given the forthcoming key wine event in Athens, Greece: the Athens Wine & Art Festival, on the 18-19th of October, featuring wine tastings, art exhibitions, and presentations from winemakers. Don’t miss the Wine et al. X I Am Art on the 24th of October, offering a tasting of Greek wines at a contemporary art gallery in Kolonaki.
