Unique, authentic and worth knowing parts of the biggest Cycladic island
by Arietta Pouliou*
According to Greek mythology, Theseus with Ariadne and his fleet of Athenians, stopped at the port of Naxos on their way back to Athens, after killing Minotaur. Ariadne fell asleep on the shore and Theseus left her there. Dionysus, the god of wine, who was in love with Ariadne, salvaged her and took her in his palace. If this is the myth that’s linked with Naxos, the reality is that the biggest Cycladic island has a long history and a big array of charms. Charms that are generously unfolded and easily discovered in the unexpected and diverse sceneries that characterise Naxos and contribute equally to its singular profile.
The almost tropical beaches with turquoise, transparent waters and the whitewashed alleys, the sea breeze and the golden sand dunes, the austere beauty of the Cycladic figurines and the grand scale of Portara gate overlooking the port, the vivid Aegean winds that excite kite surfers and the mountain villages among dense plantation, the blue horizon and the purple-gold sunsets, the Venetian Castle and the rich gastronomy.
All visitors are immediately enchanted by the grandeur and the gigantic scale of the marble ancient gate of ‘Portara’ that welcomes ships next to the port. Others, find hard to believe the exotic beauty of Naxos’ crystal clear waters, that, in every dive, make you feel as if the whole Aegean Sea embraces you. But, unfortunately and understandably for such a big island, most visitors won’t go further than the capital or Chora, a true magnet thanks to its vivid restaurant and bar scene and the impressive and imposing Venetian Castle. This way, they miss the chance to discover the authentic beauty and the traditional atmosphere of lovely villages laying by the sea, or hiding among the fertile Naxian valley. For those with a sense of exploration and a desire to experience the whore array of the island’s diverse profile, these three villages will capture their heart with their unique and unexpected character.
- Halki
The dusty-pink house fronts. The bougainvillea that climb up to reach the iron cast balconies. The pebbled alleys that hide among leafy and shady gardens…Just 15km away from Naxos’ stunning coast line and in altitude of 280m, it’s easy to forget that you’re on a Cycladic island. Neither the village’s architecture nor the rich plantation of the Tragaia valley where it’s located, resemble of the dry scenery of Cyclades. Halki has its own, charmfull character. Although small, the lovely village is full of interesting places to visit and beautiful artistic shops with elegant, homemade objects.
Half a day is enough for a complete visit and gives you plenty of time to wonder around, noticing the unexpected burst of colour from the flowers, the lovely neoclassical houses and the well-put cafes. After meandering around, you can pay a short but interesting visit to the Distillery of the Vallindras family, just off the village’s main square. Dating back to 1896 when it was established on site and housed in an elegant old mansion, the distillery offers an insight on the production of one of Naxos’ most famous products, that of Citrus liqueur and spirits. Through an exhibition of family portraits, old photos, documents and advertising posters you reach the old production space with traditional, copper ambushes and big, aged bottles. The distilled liqueur which is solely produced by locally cultivated citruses, can be tried in three different versions right on the spot: the yellow one is the most intense and highest in alcohol, followed by the white one and the mildest, green one. At the sales point in the wood-covered entrance hall, you can buy your preferred bottle. It’s an exported and P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) product worth trying.
Another interesting sight is the Byzantine church of St George Diosoritis that stands amidst the Tragaia basin since the 11th century. Just follow the pathway indicated by the signs you’ll see in the village and a short 10 minute walk will lead you through olive and fruit-baring trees to an isolated and peaceful location where the small, stone church stands. Its simple plan of an Orthodox cross with a dome is rather rare in Naxos. The murals inside are particularly interesting, with the depiction of God Almighty surrounded by angels on the dome, Virgin and the Child on the apse and many depictions of St George. The church is usually open on weekdays from morning till afternoon and only during summer period. Even if you can’t make it at these hours, the walk alone is rewarding enough and the serene atmosphere around the church is really worth enjoying.
Back to the village, the perfect way of recovering from the calories you burnt through walking, is no other than a delicious piece of freshly baked “galaktoboureko” –a traditional sweet pie rich in custard cream and syrup- at the decades old coffee house ‘’Spitiko Galaktoboureko’’. The tasty experience is an integral part of any visit to Halki. The few tables just outside the corner “kafeneio” are usually occupied by the elder habitats who are regular customers for a Greek coffee or some tsipouro with meze. Before taking your sit, have a look inside where time seems to have stopped to a long bygone era and find yourself surrounded by all sorts of old decorative objects that have been carefully preserved. Recently, a spacious yard has been added to the available sitting area just across the road. There, you will sit under the imposing stone walls of the Barozzi Tower, a 3-storey, huge and strict fortress type residence that was built in the 17th century for the famous Venetian Barozzi family. It’s still in residence today but you can approach the main entrance to see the coat of arms on the stone exterior entrance.
Just on the opposite side, you will see a church dedicated to Virgin Mary -Panagia Protothronos-, a large, bright white church in service since its latest renovation that dates back in the 11th century. It’s worth visiting in order to observe five different layers of frescoes that archaeologists have revealed.
Should you decide to spend some more time in this beautiful village, you can head towards the main square, dominated by a traditional tavern known for its meats on the spit or choose a casual café-bar for a refreshing Citrus based aperitif. As the evening comes Halki’s pulse becomes more vivid and it never fails to charm all of its visitors.
- Apollonas
A surprise of archaeological interest awaits you as you reach the village of Apollonas on the northern side of the island of Naxos: An unexpected meeting with the unfinished Kouros statue of the ancient Greek god Dionysus.
Just before the road starts to descend to reach the seaside village, a sign indicates the site of the ancient quarry which you’ll reach through a short passage of a few chiselled stairs. The 6th B.C. century marble statue is unfinished yet impressive: it’s 11 meters long, weights 80 tones and laid on the ground, with unclear characteristics and a mystical charm. At the top of the quarry a carved sign indicates the space where an ancient temple of god Apollo of the Greek mythology probably stood. That’s also where the village of Apollonas takes its name from.
As you’ll be walking down the stairs, take a moment to enjoy the view towards the village and to breathe in the intense smell of wild thyme bushes all around. Apollonas is a charming, lively seaside village, known since ancient times as the most important port for marble shipments that were carried from there to the island of Delos as well as other destinations. The setting today is all very picturesque, with the narrow bay open towards the Aegean Sea and yet quite protected by strong northern winds. Simple taverns and cafes, with friendly cats running all around waiting to be fed, occupy the pier to its length, while a couple of benches at the jetty’s edge offer beautiful view towards the village. It’s here where fishermen stock up their nets and where all children meet to compete in diving. Just behind the small, sandy beach and the taverns you can visit the beautiful church of St John, in Cycladic style of bright white and blue. Behind it, a small maze of locals’ residences and rentals extends, which is interesting to walk through. It will only take you a quarter of an hour to explore the whole village on foot, but this is part of its charm and authenticity. Apollonas is certainly a welcoming village, worth the 45km drive from Naxos town.
- Moutsouna
The small, fishermen’s village with the important role in the island’s economy: That’s how Moutsouna is known. It’s also the seaport of the well-known village of Apeiranthos, on the eastern side of Naxos.
This quiet village, with the small sandy beach was indeed a very busy hub until 4 decades ago. It was in its small port that the cargoes of emery were transported by an air cablecar net and loaded to ships that would distribute them to Greece’s major ports. Emery is a rare mineral, known since ancient times and used in road manufacturing. Naxos is the only area in Europe, and one of few globally, that have natural emery deposits of high quality. Until the middle of the 20th century, emery exploitation was the main commercial activity for the villages of Apeiranthos, Koronos and Moutsouna, that brought significant wealth to them. Unfortunately, the production of artificial, low cost emery decreased the demand for the naturally sourced mineral and eventually caused the closure of the mines and the air funicular. Along the road that leads to Moutsouna you can still see the wagons that once carried the cargos, rusted and standing still. Recently a monument was raised in the small port, honouring the mine workers, with a map close to it indicating the funicular route, while the cranes and part of the stone loading platform remain.
Nevertheless, the history of emery is not the only reason to visit Moutsouna. The picturesque bay, with clear, calm waters is ideal for swimming even when winds are strong. The beach is laid with golden sand and the sea is shallow and therefore perfect for families with young children. There are two taverns offering tasty sea food just at the edge of the beach, with calming views towards the pier. There, the old, immovable cranes make an interesting contrast with the vivid image of children running and diving from the dock, once again, an image typical of the Greek, carefree summer.
- Useful information
Being the largest island of Cyclades, apart from its airport, Naxos has a well year-round connection with the country’s main port Piraeus. During high touristic season, the daily schedule of two main companies –Blue Star Ferries and Seajets– includes departures seven times in average, while at the same time there are ferries by Fast Ferries and Seajets at least twice a day from the Port of Rafina. The duration of the journey is approximately 4,5 – 5,5 hours, covering a distance of 103 and 87 nautical miles from the two ports accordingly, and all ferries reach the port of Naxos, next to each there’s also a pier for smaller boats as well as passenger ships of intra-Cycladic ships.
Bespite being such a big island and popular holiday destination, the scale of Naxos’ port doesn’t allow big cruise ships to reach it, this way luxury liners that cruise around the Cyclades stop offshore and transport passengers via boat. Next to the port, Naxos’ marina can accommodate sail boats, catamaran and motor yachts, offering wi fi, water and electricity supply, but again the scale is small and the space limited. The best way is to reach the island by ferry and then book one of many available daily cruises that will take you around the island on a fun, relaxing sea adventure. An experience not to be missed is the short trip to the Small Cyclades complex, the breath-taking islands of Donousa, Herakleia, Shinousa and Koufonisia, with ferries sailing twice a week from the port of Naxos and returning on the same day. Additionally, there’s a good direct connection with other Cycladic islands -Mykonos, Santorini, Paros, Ios, Amorgos, Tinos, Syros and Anafi.
*Arietta Pouliou is a dedicated Greek travel journalist, born and based in Athens. Having studied Business Administration at University of Piraeus, and following a 21-year carrier in the Greek banking sector, she followed her passion of exploring the world, getting to know new cultures, searching for local tastes, secret locations and hidden aspects of every destination and sharing her discoveries with the public through her articles. For the last 4 years she has been working for Greek newspapers and travel sites.
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Viewers can read her 1st of July 2025 article on Corfu:
