by Elena Sendona
For Fall/Winter 2022, Ulla Johnson showcased her artisanal, effortless chic creations in the New York Public Library’s iconic 5th Avenue lobby, a Beaux-Arts space that offered a serene moment of respite amidst the city’s bustling landscape. Floral sculptures of cloudlike mimosa by Emily Thompson adorned the delicately intersected runway, while biomorphic sculptures in marble and walnut by Alma Allen, contrasted majestically with the monumental symmetry of the library’s hallowed walls. A soulful, rhythmic performance by PawPaw Rod set the tone as a gently smoldering aroma created by Astier de Villatte wafted through the air, conjuring wild grasses, parched wood, and red earth. It’s all in the details, as we like to say!
Inspired by Alma Allen’s organic sculptures on location and surrounded by Emily Thompson’s floral clouds of mimosa, the designer’s creations are characterized by nature’s colors and curvilinear shapes. A palette of earthy neutrals and bright hues echoing a fall/winter feel dresses the whole collection.
Floral embroidery, patchwork, crochet, ruffles, draping, and smart second-skin layering are some of the elements that make us realize the amount of work and research required for this collection to come to life. It’s signature styles plus new accessories, bags, leather goods, and even opticals that articulate the seasonal vision in tangible terms!
Yellows, browns, reds, and neutrals come in monochromes and irresistible abstract motifs. The collection looks like a day in the countryside; the images you come across during a road trip in the fall.
Metal-thread fabrics, denim, hand-made knitwear, and other materials are used for items that can be easily considered investment pieces. The result is sophisticated, bohemian, and precious at the same time. This woman is at ease with her image and feels ready to indulge in wearable luxury, things that are a pleasure to wear and are also delightful to the eyes of others. This collection is definitely aspirational, filled with must-haves for every cold-weather season.
